Annapurna IV

“US mum on terror tag” the headline read on the Himalayan times this morning, the No.1 English Daily of Nepal. I awoke to unidentified explosions at 5AM and until I finally heard the subtle percussion and flute wafting through the thick air of Kathmandu, it seemed I could not set down my third cup of coffee. We are here, but terror? Hardly…Kathmandu is awake later than I remember. The Prachanda, the CPN Maoist party leader is slowly gaining authority from the people and it seems peaceful. The melting pot of hippie chic and baby boomers from Europe and Asia has eclipdsed the wild eyed Everest mountaineers who just weeks ago filled the Yak and Yeti hotel. For now it is evolving more like a slow reduction, robust and patient rather than spicy and eccentric. It feels good to be here as an American, we are guests and feel welcome.It is still Nepal, one must only peel the onion to find a fresh layer. Shortly after breakfast I met with Babu Sherpa, “Karma” as we know him. He works magic on us, with the waive of his hand we are somehow delighted that the Royal Nepal Airlines, a government controlled aviation entity no longer flies to the destination we desire. Hongde, a small landing strip in the Menang province of Nepal will have to be reached on foot.Expedition life, as a mentor once told me, always arrives unexpectedly. We calculate our risks,our philosophy and our ability to get through anything, somehow we just don’t ever budget for $2000 charter flights. It feels good to be twenty eight years old fresh off the plane and in the Himalaya hiking, who wouldn’t add another 120 miles to an already invested journey? Especially the Annapurna circuit.So that is what we will do. The three of us will be landing in Pokhara Nepal tomorrow, then flying to Jomsom the morning of the 25th and beginning the high portion of our approach—a 5500′ day of hiking over 17,800′ Thorung La pass. Glad I got that light backpack from Osprey and those convertible pants from Mountain hardwear right? We’ll be panting and sweating a bit. Luckily we’ve hiked Thorung La from both sides before so we know what to expect. I actually think we’re getting to know the place.We had a different option, begin in the jungle and rise above the clouds but somehow–this boy that escaped Tennessee Augusts–is only willing to bear the dripping wet heat after the cold frigid summit. That alternative sounds like just the measure of contrast one needs to fully appreciate the diverse ecosystems of the Himalaya. We will enjoy our journey to basecamp and continue sending dispatches along the way.Ben Clarkclark@explorersweb.comwww.annapurnaiv.com